Day: March 17, 2006

This morning Serge left our camp with the Duponts, who share the tent on the roof of the 4 wheel drive.  When their mattress was aired, everything folded and put away Joël, Medhi and Laure filled the water tank of the camper and then started on their way.

Serge reached Zanjan at 12H30, he had a severe case of diarrhea.  It didn’t keep him from continuing at the same pace.  At 12H45, he had a telephone conference call with AGF, who were holding a convention and to which he spoke.  Telephones work in the cities but as soon as we are out in the country connections are impossible.

It was 10 kilometers across Zanjan and the traffic got heavier as we left town.  We decided to continue along the national road and not take the highway.  We went in the direction of Qazvin, but turned before reaching this large city in order to go through smaller cities, where we hoped there would be less traffic.

It was like Sunday for the Iranians and we saw a lot of people taking advantage of the lovely weather to have a picnic.

To find a place to stay for the night,  we decided with Medhi to go to Soltaniyeh, the city of the sultans, which is 5 kilometers from the main road.  Soltaniyeh has a the largest brick dome in the world.  It is a 50 meter tall dome covered in turquoise blue faience and is currently being  restored.  It dates from the 14th century, the Mongol period.  Since last year this edifice figures on the UNESCO World Heritage List.  It is the 7th monument in Iran to be so classified by UNESCO.  Medhi went directly to the town Hall to see what possibility there would be for lodging.  There will be 14 rooms set aside to welcome travelers but they aren’t quite finished.  Mr. Kalanatry, the Mayor, invited us to stay in the secondary school and made a very pleasant apartment available.  Normally teachers live there.  Because it is the New Year’s holiday there was room for us.  In addition to a place to stay, Mr. Kalanatry also offered us a meal of rice with meat kebabs.  At 19H30 the Mayor, accompanied by his 7 year old son, Yasser, came to speak with Serge.  He wanted to know how we felt about Iran before reaching the country and how we felt about it now.  Medhi acted as interpreter.  We warmly thanked our host for his welcome, his hospitality and his kindness.

Serge and the rest of us took advantage of having a hot shower and a heated place to stay.  We made a toast to Joël, for it was the last evening we would spend with him.  Tomorrow afternoon he will leave us to go to Tehran and from there take his plane.  It was tough for him and for us!