J109 – 4/5/2006

A few words about Turkmenistan:

A small country of the ex-USSR, Turkmenistan numbers 6,700,000 souls and has been independent since October 27, 1991.  The president, Mr. Soupar Mourad Niyzov, was elected for life and is the supreme commander of the armed forces.  He is also called Turkmanbashi, literally, Chief of the Turkmens.  The capital, Ashgabat (which means region of love) is, according to our guide Bakhtiyar, who lives there, a very beautiful city with many sumptuous marble buildings.  The majority of these were built by a French company: Bouygues.  The president also built in the village where he was born, the largest mosque in Central Asia.  The Turkmens represent 87% of the population, the remaining 13% being divided between Russians and Armenians.  Since independence, the official language is Turkmen, which comes from Turkish azeiri but Russian is also spoken.

From the border Serge ran on a small road and joined Hauz-Han at kilometer 65. This is one of the main roads between Ashgbat and Mary.  There are many Turkish trucks on this last portion of road.  As Serge said: “My buddies are back again.”

Anecdote of the day: The camel attack!

Yes, it’s possible to see these haughty mammals fly into a rage.  An aggressive camel first charged Mathieu and the BMW of our driver, Oraz, who just had time to jump in the car and drive away as quickly as possible.  Serge arrived just at this point and the animal started to charge him.  Jean-Marc chose to remain near Serge and that is when it because a circus act: Serge ran around the car and the camel, foaming at the mouth, followed him kicking his hind legs to show his anger.  The four wheel drive advanced slowly and cornered the camel, who was obliged to go down the embankment.  What a relief, Serge was able to continue on his way.

After 76 kilometers the 8000 kilometer mark was celebrated in the sun, beer in hand.  Yes, Yes, genuine beer!

This evening our lodging will be in an (international road transport) TIR-Restaurant, which is open 24H/24 to truckers. Oraz and Bakhtiyar, to celebrate our arrival offered a bottle of Vodka.  Serge politely declined and toasted with Coke Cola (even beer does not sit well), while the men of the team kept up with Oraz, having 3 or 4 glasses each (very small glasses).  It was a good, relaxed atmosphere, no more headbands or veils. Turkmenistan is a secular country even if the majority of the population is Muslim and more precisely sunnite.