J125 – 4/21/2006

Here we are in the heart of the Ferghana Valley, a wide fertile plain of the Syr Daria River, which stretches for 300 kilometers, is surrounded by high mountains and where the wind usually sweeps in.  This valley stretches from Khushand in Tajikistan all the way Kirghistan.  It’s the most heavily populated region of Central Asia, as can be seen by the number of village we pass.  The partition among the three republics dates from 1924, when the Soviet government arbitrarily traced the borders, most probably with the idea of “dividing to rule.”  In spite of it, one can see that the Islamic traditions and practices are more prevalent here than in other provinces of Uzbekistan: prayer rituals, woman wearing veils and men, even the young, aren’t seen bare headed in the street.  It’s a region where the economy is closely tied to the growing of cotton, fruit trees and different crops irrigated by the Syr Daria and the Ferghana Canal, which is 270 kilometers long.

It’s in such an environment of heavy traffic, heat (29° Celsius) and dense population that Serge is running today, joking this morning, rather silent this afternoon (a sore thigh and a stomach which is still acting up).  A positive point: the wind is favorable.

We had an unusual encounter in Neyshabor, a small village just after the border: two men showed us a photo of the Eiffel Tower, which they built in front of their restaurant and which has a soccer ball at the top.  Their restaurant offers fresh game cooked à la Française.  They are fervent supporters of the French soccer team and these poor men, stuck in Moscow, weren’t able to see the games of the World Cup in 1998 so they painted on the wall of their restaurant: FRANSIYA – 98 with a beautiful soccer ball.

The life of the caravan follows it’s course: Jean-Marc and Barchilov, in the 4-wheel drive, guide and feed Serge, whereas Benjamin cleaned the refrigerator, which had become a real culture medium because of the heat.  Gas and electricity are rationed because high octane fuel is not easy to find and the bottles of gas are rarely compatible with the European models, not to speak of the quality of both, which often damages the equipment.  For the moment we are living on our reserves, which we use judiciously. Since Turkmenistan it has not always been easy to fill our reservoir with non-potable water for the shower and dish and clothes washing. In Qoqand we were able to stock up on water, Coke Cola, chocolate bars, cakes, fruit and freeze dried noodles.

This evening we will camp at a farm next to the road and will eat outside with a wonderful sunset in front of us.

There are more photos of Iran.  Mathieu sends a second video.  Many thanks to him for his work.