J93 – 3/20/2006

It was 5 degrees Celsius when we woke this morning, which isn’t bad and yet it seemed to be cold for the region at this time of year.  Serge had a very good day with a favorable wind and once again the rain missed him, even if it must have fallen fairly close.

At the first feeding in Buin, Georges and René received an offer for tea.  It was also at Buin that we left Medhi, who is going back to his family to celebrate the New Year this evening.  Madjid is replacing him.  He is 24 and lives in Tehran.  He will accompany us to the border of Turkmenistan.

We are following the silk road and after Eshtehard there were the remains of a caravansary at the roadside.  These buildings gave shelter to travelers and the caravans.  Most of the time the distance between the inns was 20 to 30 kilometers, that is to say, a day’s travel with camels.

We found shelter at the mausoleum of SAFA DASHT: it is a proud looking edifice with its blue dome.  Tomb stones were all-around inside and outside of the enclosure: we were in a cemetery.  Outside the enclosure rooms are available to travelers and pilgrims, of which there are many during this holiday period.  The two most important cities for pilgrhttps://sergegirard.com/old/old/images are Qom, to the south of Tehran and Mashaad, to the East and close to the Turkmenistan border.

So, there we were, installed among the dead to spend the night.  Serge, perhaps haunted by phantoms, spent a terrible night with a bad stomach ache which had him writhing in pain which even went to his lower back.  

This morning, Tuesday, we will see how things go.  Serge had a light breakfast and left, very warmly dressed.  We wonder what is in store for us on this day that will take us to the gates of Tehran?