J54 – 2/9/2006

This morning as we approached Turkey the temperature was -11°C.  At km 16 we left Serge equipped with his back pack and his passport, and headed  for the Turkish border, which is at km 28.  In Greece 598 km were covered.  It took us 50 minutes to get through all the border formalities, which is nothing compared to what the truckers had to wait.  There was a line 2 km long and we counted 50 trucks waiting.  It was impressive.

We waited for Serge at km 29 under the sign “Welcome to Turkey.”  He arrived, all smiles, saying that he had been through a lot.  The geographic border is located on a bridge with the Greek army on the West and the Turkish army on the East.  We went through by car never thinking that Serge would be challenged.  “You aren’t allowed to cross the bridge on foot” he was told by the Greek soldiers.  Serge explained who he was and handed out post cards.  The Greeks said OK but the Turks had to check with their commander and suggested that Serge get in their truck to cross the bridge.  “There is no question of it, it’s impossible” replied Serge.  What a relief, the commander gave permission.  Serge spent ten minutes talking with the Turkish soldiers, who took photos of the strange individual, surly the first to have crossed such a well-guarded bridge on foot.  To clear the two border  check points the post cards distributed by the followers made life easier for Serge, who went through on foot, passport in hand.  Serge was happy as a kid and for a few minutes felt like a conqueror.

The snowdrifts that line the roads are impressive. Snow fell heavily last Sunday, much more so than in Greece.  Today the sky is menacing but it’s surely too cold to snow.  So much the better because our magnificent snow shovel has disappeared.

Near the crossing which pointed us toward Kesan, Christian and Fulvio were offered a hot coffee.  We have entered a very hospitable land, that of the Moslem world.  The welcome and the hospitality are exceptional for us who are used to living where neighbors and strangers are treated with indifference.  Even if our bodies aren’t warm, our hearts are and it’s a lucky thing because a long, cold road lies ahead in Turkey.